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Thank you #9
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Nice, yeah I think it makes the Qiroll a lot better. And sadly no, but I suspect you’re right that it would require getting at that PCB… I think Qiroll is a good product overall, still surprises me that they haven’t added pedal assist. happy riding! |
Interesting!So I didn’t know much about electronics when I started this (still not an expert by any means!). I think it’s 5v… but not actually intended to source current so it bounces all over even with a small load (maybe it’s just pulled high by their uC the way I assume the two buttons are?). Without knowing what’s going on in there it’s hard to be certain…On Jun 23, 2024, at 05:15, Michael Niewöhner ***@***.***> wrote:
It's a bit weird that the note at the picture and text disagree....
image.png (view on web)
It seems they have fixed this with version 2:
image.png (view on web)
You mentioned that the output voltage on the "USB" port is fluctuating. Do you remember what voltage it was exactly?
—Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.You are receiving this because you commented.Message ID: ***@***.***>
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Ok, let's see what I can find out when I get mine :-) Do you have a photo of the switch PCB by chance? |
Sooooooo I got my hands an a defective Qiroll Pro v2. Epoxy can't stop me haha, so I managed to get the (now definitely broken) PCB out of it 😆 Guess what? There's TWO microcontrollers in there \o/ ESP32-C and APM32F303 (STM32F303 clone). Fortunately, the ESP32 did not have encrypted enabled so I could dump the firmware image. Reverse engineering in progress ;-) Going to dump the APM32 today. |
oh wow! curious to see the results :) |
thanks for sharing! will keep an eye on what else you figure out ;) |
Oh my.... the APM32 firmware is based on the VESC project... this is going to be fuuuuuuuuun! vesc-project.com |
Just pushed an update ;) It's indeed VESC, version 4.00 to be exact. Yeeeeah. 100% GPL violation -.- |
oh wow ;) |
Man, awesome! That's exactly what I was thinking about when ordering a Qiroll Pro today 😄
While I'm going to do it with a uC, I still really like your non-uC approach!
I wonder, if you tried to find a way to select normal vs. power mode on the Pro while driving?
Maybe there's a way to hack the firmware, but the problem seems the PCB being filled up with epoxy :/
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